Short answer: to secure a load on a trailer, block it so it can’t slide forward, then strap it down with enough ratchet straps that their combined working load limit is at least half the weight of the load. Hook each strap to a solid anchor point on the trailer, keep straps off sharp edges, tighten until the load doesn’t move when you push on it, and recheck every strap after the first few miles.
A load that shifts changes how your trailer handles, and a load that falls off is a hazard for everyone behind you. Here’s how to tie it down the right way.
- What You Need to Tie Down a Trailer Load
- How Many Straps Do You Need?
- How to Use a Ratchet Strap, Step by Step
- Tips for Common Trailer Loads
- Common Tie-Down Mistakes
- Before You Pull Out
- Frequently Asked Questions
What You Need to Tie Down a Trailer Load
- Ratchet straps rated for the job. Every quality strap has a label showing its working load limit (WLL), which is the most weight it’s designed to hold in normal use. The break strength is higher, but you plan around the WLL, not the break strength.
- Solid anchor points on the trailer: stake pockets, D-rings, rub rails or welded tie-down loops. A wood deck board or a plastic fender is not an anchor point.
- Edge protectors or a folded rag for sharp corners, so the strap doesn’t cut or fray.
- Chocks or blocking for anything that can roll, like a mower, a drum or a spool.
- A tarp and cargo net for loose material such as brush, mulch or debris.
How Many Straps Do You Need?
A useful benchmark comes from the federal cargo securement rules for commercial vehicles. Personal trailers may not be covered by them, and your state may have its own load-securement law, but the math is a good way to make sure you’re not under-strapped.
- Strength: under 49 CFR 393.106, the combined working load limit of the tiedowns must be at least half the weight of what you’re securing. A strap that goes from the trailer, over the load and down to the other side counts for its full WLL. A strap that runs from the trailer to an anchor point on the load itself, or over the load and back to the same side, counts for half its WLL.
- Number: under 49 CFR 393.110, an item that isn’t blocked from sliding forward needs at least one tiedown if it’s 5 feet or shorter and 1,100 lbs or less, two tiedowns if it’s 5 feet or shorter and heavier than 1,100 lbs or between 5 and 10 feet long, and two tiedowns plus one more for every additional 10 feet (or part of 10 feet) if it’s longer than 10 feet.
Example: a 2,000 lb load needs straps with a combined WLL of at least 1,000 lbs. Two straps rated at 500 lbs WLL each, both running over the load from one side of the trailer to the other, meet that number exactly. Many haulers add a strap beyond the minimum, because one strap loosening shouldn’t be all that stands between you and a shifted load.
How to Use a Ratchet Strap, Step by Step
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- Open the ratchet. Pull the release lever and flip the ratchet fully open so the spindle slot faces up.
- Hook the fixed end to an anchor point on one side of the trailer, with the hook facing so tension pulls it into the anchor, not off it.
- Run the strap over the load to an anchor point on the other side. Keep it flat with no twists, and put edge protectors on any sharp corners.
- Feed the loose end up through the slot in the ratchet’s spindle and pull out the slack by hand until the strap is snug.
- Crank the ratchet with short strokes until the strap is tight. Two or three wraps on the spindle is plenty; too much strap on the spindle can jam it.
- Close and lock the ratchet flat so it can’t pop open, then tie off or tuck the loose tail so it can’t flap in the wind or catch a wheel.
- Push on the load. If it moves, it isn’t secured yet. Add a strap or reposition the ones you have.
Tips for Common Trailer Loads
Mowers, ATVs and other wheeled equipment
Set the parking brake, chock the wheels, and strap from solid points on the frame or axle, not from plastic body parts or handlebars that can flex. Cross the straps front and rear so the machine can’t slide forward, back or sideways. Load it so the trailer keeps proper tongue weight.
Furniture, boxes and appliances
Put heavy items low and toward the front of the trailer, push items tight against each other or against the front rail, and run straps across the whole group. Wrap fragile surfaces with a blanket before strapping.
Loose material, brush and debris
Straps alone won’t hold loose material. Cover it with a tarp or cargo net and strap the cover down so nothing can blow out. Many states have laws against unsecured or spilling loads, so check yours before a dump run.
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Vehicles on a car trailer
Use wheel straps or axle straps at all four corners, following the trailer maker’s instructions. Our guide to towing a car on a flatbed trailer walks through it, and tow dolly vs car trailer helps if you’re still choosing.
Common Tie-Down Mistakes
- Using bungee cords as the main tiedown. Bungees stretch. They’re fine for holding a tarp edge, not for holding a load.
- Hooking to something that isn’t an anchor point. If the anchor bends or breaks, the strap rating doesn’t matter.
- Ignoring the WLL label. Cheap or worn straps may hold far less than you think. Retire any strap that’s cut, frayed, burned or has a damaged hook.
- Over-tightening. Cranking until something cracks can damage the load. Tight enough that it doesn’t move is the goal.
- Not rechecking. Straps settle and loads shift as you drive. Stop after the first few miles and at every fuel stop to check them.
Before You Pull Out
Securing the load is one step in your pre-trip routine. Make sure the trailer is loaded with the right weight balance, the safety chains are crossed and connected, the lights work, and the tires are inflated. If you’re not sure what your truck can pull, check it with our towing capacity calculator.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How many ratchet straps do I need for a trailer?
It depends on the weight and length of the load. A good benchmark from the federal commercial rules is a combined working load limit of at least half the load’s weight, and at least two straps for anything over 5 feet long or over 1,100 lbs. Adding one more than the minimum is a smart backup.
What is the working load limit on a ratchet strap?
It’s the most weight the strap is designed to hold in normal use, and it’s printed on the strap’s label. It’s lower than the break strength, and it’s the number you should plan around.
Can I use bungee cords to secure a load?
Not as your main tiedown. Bungees stretch and can let a load shift or bounce out. Use ratchet straps or chains to hold the load and save bungees for tarp edges.
How often should I check my straps while towing?
Check them after the first few miles, then at every stop. Straps can loosen as the load settles, especially on rough roads.
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